In Melody Fortier’s book I pictured in my last post, she extols the virtues of the vintage coat. In her chapter titled ” Categories of Clothing” starting on page 29, she writes that “Vintage outerwear is definitely the best value for your dollar. The fabrics alone are usually worth more than what you pay for a comparable new garment, and many of the beautiful wools and weaves are no longer available. Cashmere coats top the list. The cashmere used in vintagewear was collected (harmlessly, mind you) from cashmere goats living in the wild in such countries as India and Mongolia. Their modern domesticated counterparts simply do not produce the same fine, silky fur” and she goes on to say that “made with better fabrics and superior construction, vintage coats wear amazingly well and look beautiful forever if properly cleaned and stored”.
I found this coat many years ago in a vintage shop owned by an local actress in San Diego that had the most interesting pieces I had ever come across. Unfortunately, she closed her shop to return to acting full time, but before she closed her doors, she gave me a huge box of vintage patterns because she knew that I loved to sew and was so fascinated with her incredible eye for style and great pieces.
The coat has two labels.
And it also had a consumer protection label, that said “National Coat and Suit Industry” and “National Recovery Board” with FWG, as well as “Manufactured Under Fair Labor Standards”. According to Melodie, “The National Recovery Act, in effect in the United States from 1933 to 1935, served to promote fair competition in business as well as fair labor. Some manufactures had labels put into their products to indicate they were in compliance with these guidelines”. So I think it is fair to say that this coat was made sometime during those two years.
I used to wear this coat, but not so much anymore. I am thinking of taking the lambswool off since it is deteriorating and replacing it with somethings else. I am not sure what. I have become an advocate for the ethical welfare of animals, so wearing a piece such as this does not suit my standards anymore. I also refuse to wear any leather, including shoes, but this is a subject that will not serve my purpose on this blog. The lining is a nice rayon crepe with a good weight. It is also underlined with another loosely woven wool for added warmth.
This coat has a great style. I am drawn to anything with a raglan sleeve. Even more remarkable, the sleeve looks raglan from the back and set in with a seam from the front. I have never seen this treatment before in any other pieces. I found this in an antique and collectibles shop in a rural farm town south of Portland, Oregon. It was marked down in price from an already fair one, and as it was spring, the owner probably felt it would not sell in the nicer weather. It is extremely well made with a beautiful heavy satin lining and bound button holes which I love, and you rarely see unless it is a couture or designer piece.
This coat is a perfect fit and looks great with jeans or skirts and tights.
Labels have always fascinated me and this is a great one!
One of the things I have found in wearing vintage styles is that it is important to pair it with something edgy or trendy so you don’t look frumpy or out-dated. Layering is good too with funky accessories to give the whole look a sharp feel. Once I made the mistake of wearing a black vintage cocktail dress to a holiday function with a vintage rhinestone necklace, and my hair in a french twist and was uncomfortable all night. The look was too predictable and virtuous and staid. You really don’t want to look like the minister’s wife sipping a cocktail.
Tomorrow I will cut out the skirt and begin to plan some other clothes for spring and summer out of some old linen pieces that I have in my collection. I will post the process of the skirt as I plan, cut, and sew.
Love those coats! I’ve been wearing a wool plaid one for 20 years. Do I get to consider it vintage now?
According to Melody, anything 20 years or older is vintage. Hang on to it!
Both of the coats are lovely but, the first one is quite
striking to me. I especially enjoyed hearing about the history.
It seems the older things are made so much better…from sewing machines to garments. Thank you : )
I agree with you, including the older sewing machines. They are really sturdy and long-surviving. I am leery of so much that is new these days.
Where do you put all of your treasure and how do you catalog them. That last coat is really remarkable and it does fit you so well. What fun that you share these items with us. Thank you.
It is funny, but I have been collecting for at least 30 years now and seem to have places for most things. I am willing to start selling off a few pieces as times goes on.
I saw this post and knew I would have to comment. I have such love for the black wool coat. I know how you feel about the lambswool, but I’d be so sad to see it removed. Wish there was a way to save it!
You let me wear this coat a few times (were we living in San Francisco?) and I remember feeling so striking and fashionable when I wore it. It is one of those things that makes you ‘feel’ different when you put it on and I immediately was flooded with the memory of that feeling the moment I saw the photograph.
Beautiful Mom!
Wow, Linsey! I loved hearing from you. What a treat. I think the reason that you remembered that coat is because you looked so beautiful in it. Truly the design is so classic and it will essentially never go out of style. Now I am thinking that perhaps I should give this coat to you since you have such vivid and wonderful memories of it. If that is the case, perhaps I can figure a way to have it restored. I am taking it to the dry cleaners in a little bit.
I wonder if the top coat was ever worn in any plays or movies? Just imagine the drama that might have seeped into its fabric! And how wonderful to have all those labels still in tact, telling more of its history. I love clothing that comes with its own stories! xo Kari
You, one of the best story tellers, has the imagination to seek the possibility that might exist in an object, be it a house or an article of clothing. If only clothes could talk and tell us where they had been, whom they had seen, and what stories they had heard. Like Jude’s trees with eyes, they could give us a piece of magic or a history untold. If only…..but we can always imagine and dream. Maybe that is even better than knowing for sure.
Wearing items from the past brings mystery to a wardrobe and I love that. Vintage clothing is, as you pointed out, made of better fabric and craftmanship. Vintage clothing and accessories connect us to the past. For me vintage items have a different “feel” to them. Having the ability to redesign these cloths makes your choice very personal.
I agree with you about vintage bringing mystery to one’s way of dressing. We don’t have to look old fashioned or dated as long as we combine these with contemporary accessories or in combination with current articles of clothing that give them a modern but edgy look. I guess, for me, they give me a way of thinking about more creative design and sewing. I want to use some of my collection of textiles in a more modern look and see if this can eventually be a way to dress with more distinction and fun without buying new and depending on the stores to provide me with the same boring and poison merchandise.
Please forgive, I neglected to mention, I enjoyed your post and loved your vintage musings combined with excellent photos.
Thank you!
What thrilling coats and ideas! The black coat is of a superb quality, such cut and fine cloth. The check appeals to me too, its a funky, casual coat, but beautifully cut, I agree about the sleeves! I am really into the idea of up-cycling too A s always, an inspirational post, thanks Phyllis x
So now, Lois, I am curious about your vintage clothes, particularly because you go to so many wonderful textile sales. You must see some pretty nice things, I imagine. With your eye for textiles, I am sure it gets transferred to the clothing too.
I think I shall have to do a post on my blog over the weekend, inspired by you, and share pics of some of my favourite vintage pieces! I have worn vintage clothes since I was 14, and used to spend all my pocket money in charity/thrift shops buying such things as gorgeous 30s blouses, 50s dirdle skirts and in those days, Victorian fur coats, but I wouldn’t touch fur now. I shall have fun sorting out a few pieces, the main problem will be deciding which to choose! Have a lovely peaceful, creative and joyous weekend Phyllis, xx
Oh! I would love it if you would do a post on some of your vintage pieces! That would be so much fun to see and read about since you have been collecting for so many years. I would imagine that you cannot even touch some of this clothing now for what you paid back then when you first started collecting. I will greatly anticipate this post. How fun it will be!