
I do not purport to be an expert on quilt history by any means. The subject is far too vast, and so much has been written and well documented that I could never claim any expertise. However, from time to time, I like to feature textiles or quilts that are favorites, and silk quilts happen to be at the top of my list. A few weeks ago, I featured a detail of this silk quilt that I chanced to see at The International Quilt Festival in Long Beach. At the time I was walking around with my very pregnant daughter and somehow regretfully did not write any information down on this quilt. So I am going to make a few guesses about its history.

This is the detail that I showed on an earlier post. It captures what I love most about silk quilts, the beauty of the luster and the colors. I think most people know silk quilts by viewing the Victorian crazy quilts. I have to admit, I am not partial to these because of their obvious busyness, but I am deeply respectful of the beauty of the embroidery as well as all the admirable work that went into these cherished pieces. My favorite patterns, when it comes to silk quilts, are the Log Cabin and the Hexagon/Mosaic. This quilt above is a variation of the Log Cabin, and my guess is that it was, most likely, made sometime around 1890, give or take a few years. The quilt is in excellent condition which tells me it was made and never used, or stored under proper conditions that assured its longevity and perfection. Most women who made silk quilts were affluent and would make them and use them only on special occasions or to give as gifts. The little black dot in the middle of the silks is probably a silk velvet.

One of my favorite books for general American quilt history is this one by Roderick Kiracofe. And when I am in Mendocino, I am at a bit of a loss for my reference books because the majority are kept in Portland. However, I did have an extra copy of this book that I leave here. I think in terms of silk used in quilts, it might be safe to say that, other than the ubiquitous Crazy Quilt, the Mosaic and the Log Cabin were the most popular patterns.
Kiracofe in his book on pages 152 and 153 has a photo of the most incredible silk and velvet Log Cabin Courthouse Steps, c. 1880-1900. Although you can see some of the deterioration of the silks, the quilt seems, otherwise, to be in good condition. It is such a treat to see this, and I urge anyone to take this book out of the library and do further reading. Kiracofe writes that “most experts agree that [Log Cabin quilts] emerged sometime during or immediately after the Civil War. Log Cabin quilts were immensely popular during the last quarter of the 19th century…” Further, “rich wool challis was a favorite fabric for the early Log Cabins of Pennsylvania. The silks and velvets were also chosen for this very precise pattern; in many of the silk Log Cabins, the ‘logs are as small as 1/4 to 1/2 inch.”

Silk quilts will not wear well if exposed to sunlight or lots of use. Another factor with these old silks is often the fabric was weighted with metallic salts to give them more body, and many of the silks treated in this way have inevitably deteriorated. I showed this quilt previously, but am showing it here again to demonstrate how the silks are in pretty bad condition. I bought this quilt over ten years ago for a song, thinking it was a real find, only to discover many of the worn and shredded silks had been hidden under a covering of various triangle patches. I have since removed these and am in the process of restoring it to its natural state with a protective covering of netting.

This detail above shows more clearly the deterioration. I still love this quilt in all its imperfection.

This silk piece above is actually part of a pair of silk taffeta curtains I made for our dining room in Mendocino. Even though the silk is protected with a lining, and the window covered with a lace curtain, some of the sun has faded and deteriorated the edge. Sunlight is the worst element for silk, and this always serves to remind me to care for silk quilts in a very specialized manner.

This wall hanging I purchased at the Houston International Quilt Festival many years ago from a seller that did not have any idea what it was. I bought it because I thought it was very unusual and all of the weaving is done in silk. My youngest daughter fell in love with it too. In view of the fact that it has a somewhat contemporary feel, and her taste is modern, I gave it to her. She has it hanging in the bedroom. The silk is holding up because it is secured very well in the weaving, and it is protected from direct sunlight.

A few years ago while looking through this book for another reason, I suddenly came across the very same hanging with a date of 1895, if my recollection is accurate (I do not have this book with me here). I am guessing that when women had leftover silks from their special silk quilts, they had the option of using some of these in weavings and perhaps used them as hangings over doorways to prevent drafts. I have never seen another one in person since that time, so I am guessing they might be a little hard to locate.

This close-up really does justice to the beauty of this piece.
I do not have any photos of silk Mosaic or Hexagon quilts because I do not own one, and due to copyright issues, I did not feel free to show any published ones. However, I highly urge anyone to do a little internet research or to look for some examples in books because they are so remarkable. I featured one from the show earlier, but that was done in cotton, not silk. However, Mosaic quilts were done most likely using the paper-piecing method due to the intricacy of the piecework. Below is the example in cotton.
